General course objectives
To learn the physics and mathematics involved in the description of regular and irregular water waves. This knowledge is part of detailed design and analyses of coastal and marine structures/facilities.
Content
Linear and nonlinear wave theories for monochromatic waves on constant depth such as higher order Stokes theory, Second- and third-order theory for short-crested waves. Cnoidal theory and solitary wave theory. Streamfunction methods. Linear wave-current interaction including Doppler shift and blocking. Diffraction, Wave spectra and Fourier techniques. Spectral generation and Fourier analysis of the corresponding time series. Triad interactions in shallow water. Wave instabilities due to quartet-, and quintet- interactions. Introduction to wave modelling techniques in time and frequency domain.
Prerequisites
Learning outcomes
A student who has met the objectives of the course will be able to:
- Apply Stokes wave theory up to third order for regular waves in deeper water.
- Explain and calculate the phenomena involved in linear wave-current interaction.
- Explain and apply cnoidal and solitary wave theory for regular waves in shallow water.
- Apply linear theory to predict wave transformation due to diffraction.
- Estimate the hydrodynamic phenomena involved in wave breaking and wave induced currents.
- Apply stream function methods for highly nonlinear waves to assess surface elevation and wave kinematics.
- Explain the fundamental patterns occurring in nonlinear short-crested waves in deep and shallow water.
- Explain and determine the phenomena of quartet and quintet interactions and the resulting instabilities occurring in deep water.
- Explain and determine the phenomena of triad interactions, bound waves and harmonic modulation occurring in shallow water.
- Generate and analyse synthetic time series of linear irregular waves using wave spectra and Fourier techniques.
- Evaluate the use of spectral wind wave modelling and intra wave modelling for solving coastal and marine problems.
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